Used to clean and
condition blades. Use to clean new blades and to clean blades at the
end of your grooming sessions. Do not leave blades in blade wash
between groomings as this is a corrosive and the blades will begin
Canine “Duck” dryer with stand or a regular human hair (be sure to
watch the heat and don't point the dryer at the same spot for
extended periods of time). I would highly recommend purchasing a
neck hanger or table clamp to help you hold a human hair dryer as
you dry the dog. These items allow your hands to be free to hold the
dog, pick up the legs and/or to brush the coat as you dry the dog.
Check out a dog show or an on-line dog show vendor for one of these
items ($12-$20). Or you can purchase a length of copper wire and a
piece of plastic tubing to go over it at Lowe's and make your own
neck hanger! ($5)
A canine stand
dryer is more powerful and will dry the dog quicker, but unless
you're showing or have multiple dogs it's probably not worth the
A quality set of
clippers is your most important grooming tool. I recommend
Oster Two-Speed Turbo A-5.
#10 blade is all that you absolutely have to have for pet grooming.
(The higher the blade number the shorter the cut.) Be sure
your blades are cleaned, oiled and sharpened as necessary.
Blades will last longer and need less maintenance if you use them on
clean, non-matted dogs. Be sure and check the
temperature of your blades regularly as the friction of cutting hair
will cause a build up of heat.
Buy the best
blades you can - steel blades heat up quickly; blades with ceramic
cutters last longer and stay cool longer. Oster Elite
Cryogen-X or Top Performance Titanium Ceramic blades are the best.
- A #8 1/2
is a good choice for cleaning the face on dogs that tend to
clipper burn or scratch sores on their face after grooming.
- A #15 or
#30 is nice for cleaning out the hair between the pads.
These blades can also be used for really close trims on dogs
that don't have sensitive skin. (Generally very thick
- A #7F or
#5F is good for trimming the back coat of dogs that tend to get
irritated by shorter clips or that have reasonably flat back
coats that only require light trimming. These blades are
also good for blending short back clips into the longer side
coats. Can also be used for short summer cuts or to strip
- A #3F or
#4F can be used for short "puppy cuts" on the legs and side
coat. (Leaves hair 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.)
Lube", "Cool Care", etc. Clipper blade
coolant and lubricant. Use while clipping to cool blades and wash
away debris that slows and clogs blades. Spray surfaces of blade
with clipper running. Blot with paper towel before returning to
clipping. Some types also disinfect.
- This is
needed to lubricate your blades so they run cool and smooth.
when brushing. Show Sheen and Lasersheen are two equine
products that can be used to help reduce/loosen tangles and to repel
dust, dirt and yard debris. They also help protect white/light
coats from urine stains. Canine products include The Stuff,
Crown Royale, Ice On Ice and #1 All Systems Conditioners.
EXTRA FINE 20 BLADE COMBO.
I use this type of
stripper on most of my puppies and my show dogs. The stripper
is pulled down the neck and back repeatedly to thin and smooth the
coat and to blend the back into the side coat. (Doesn't do
much for thinner, flat-coated dogs but can really help on those
with lots of back coat.)
I use two combs. My
favorite is a Resco 600 series Fine-Toothed comb. I use this
as my "brush-out" comb - to help locate tangles and do a final once
over to be sure the dog is completely brushed out. I also use
a "greyhound" style comb (has a coarse-toothed and a fine-toothed
for quick smoothing and to help work out tangles.
This will make
grooming much easier for you and the dog. Crate-top tables
start around $40 and small "ring-side" tables start around $55.
Both of these will require that you buy the grooming arm separately
($25). A regular grooming table and arm combo will cost
I prefer the
single blade mat splitter as it does less damage to the coat and
doesn't pull as harshly on the dog. Multi blade splitters can
be used to help thin a dog's coat if you would like less bulk.
the nail clippers that you are most comfortable with. Styles
vary but most work equally well. Nails may be done before the
bath (if you quick a nail you can wash away the mess) or
just after the bath (the nails will be softer after the bath).
A nail grinder is worth trying if your dog hates having his nails
brush is used for moderate to heavy coats and will help remove minor
tangles. Chris Christenson or #1 All Systems brushes.
You will need 2-5
pairs of shears. Check out vendors at a dog show or go to a
local beauty supply store. You must try the scissors in your
hand before buying! The scissors should open and close with
little or no pressure and should not be uncomfortable in your hand.
- I prefer a straight
6.5" shear ($30 - $60) for initial trimming around the
bottoms of the feet and an 8.5" straight shear ($45 - $100) for
hand scissoring legs and side coat.
shears are the best choice to "bell" the feet on a Cocker in full
coat. I use a 6.5" shear for this as well.
($30 - $60).
- A 4" pair
of ball-tipped shears ($20- $40) are good for trimming between
the pads of the feet, in the corners of the eyes and inside the
ears around the ear canal.
- A set of
thinning shears are a must to smooth and blend the top-knot, to
hand-scissor the back of a show dog and to blend other "lines"
on the dog. I use a 5.5" 40 tooth shear. Quality
REALLY counts here! ($60-$150)
To brush the coat
and remove tangles. For show coats and puppies, the Chris
Christenson or #1 All Systems brushes. For pet coats and/or
those that need to remove serious tangles, the Universal Slicker.
necessarily needed for pet clips. This dull knife is used on
show Cockers to remove
the undercoat on the back. (Back coats may also be hand
stripped - the hair is gradually "pulled" with the fingers over a
period of time.)
Use to strip, smooth and blend the back coat of show dogs.
Pick up two
or three small plastic tote boxes for your equipment. The open type
boxes with handles or stackable boxes with lids will work. Or mix
and match. I suggest one for bathing supplies, one for brushes,
combs and scissors and one for clippers and related equipment. You
might even need a fourth for bottles of Blade Wash, spray
conditioner, Kool Lube, etc. Keeping your equipment organized will
make grooming quicker, easier and more convenient as you won’t waste
time trying to find lost articles.